After a challenging first exploratory trek to the region in 2018, and a follow-up in 2019, we had planned to head back for further adventures, but covid, and now war in Ukraine, has prevented that from happening. Eventually we will get back and ride the legendary Yakut horses with our friends amongst the Even and Evenki peoples.
When we say we are going to the Republic of Sakha, most people give us a blank look. If we try Yakutia (its alternative name), that doesn't help much. But if we say Siberia, people start to be able to place it - and then dismiss it as a cold, desolate wasteland.
That's a mistake, as this vast area is incredibly beautiful. How vast is it? Almost the size of India, but with a tiny percentage of the population. So it's a big, beautiful, empty wilderness. Perfect for exploring on horseback!
We take packhorses into the taiga, a roadless mix of low valleys, mountains, lakes, huge braided rivers, and forest. And yes some bog too. This is the land of bears, moose, and snow sheep to keep a watch for.
This trek is suited to adventurous riders and trekkers, who do not mind ‘roughing it.’ This area of Siberia is very remote and undeveloped, and involves a significant amount of packhorsing. As the trip is exploratory, riders who are looking for a challenge, and are not afraid to get out of their comfort zone (sometimes way out), will especially enjoy it.
If you are not an experienced rider, that's OK, the horses are generally calm. It's more important that you have significant outdoor experience and have travelled well off the beaten track previously. To date we have only invited our past riders, who we know are right for this trip. We are slightly nervous to be offering it more generally, so we will be asking you to tell us about your relevant experience.
We thought the Mongolian horses were tough until we met these guys. With temperatures as low as -70C in winter, the Yakut horses need to be even tougher. They are a native breed, unique to the Sakha (Yakut) region, and are bred for meat as well as riding.
You will be amazed at where these horses will carry you. We think of them as the tanks of the taiga - they just plough on through the deepest bog and thickest forest. They are not exactly built for speed, but when the terrain allows, they will get up to a nice gallop. Much of the time the terrain calls for a slow pace.
The tack is rough but functional. Unusually, there is only one rein - controlling the horse involves a combination of neck-reining and English style. It makes sense once you are there!
Your first challenge is finding your way to Yakutsk, the regional capital, where we meet. We start by crossing the mighty Lena River by ferry and begin a two-day drive east along the infamous Road of Bones (so named because of the hundreds of thousands of prisoners who died building it during the Stalinist era).
After meeting the horses, we ride to our basecamp that was once a large horse breeding collective, in Soviet times (our luggage goes by tank - it's Russia after all). From here we load up the packhorses and head in to the taiga. There are no roads and few people, so it's an opportunity to experience true wilderness travel. Local people live a fairly subsistence lifestyle, hunting and fishing and living off the land as much as possible. We aim to immerse ourselves in this culture and discover a different way of living.
Siberia has seen relatively little tourism, so it offers a uniquely authentic chance to experience one of the last native horse cultures, surviving and thriving in the post-Soviet world. Hospitality and survival go hand in hand and will include you as you become part of the Sakha family.
The majority of people in the area where we ride, and our local team, are ethnically Yakut, Even, and Evenki. There are some major differences in these ethnic minority cultures compared to other parts of Russia, but essentially they live a traditional lifestyle adapted from their cultural roots and Soviet experiences.
As in Mongolia, hospitality, horses, and connection to nature are a major aspect of the culture and an essential part of everyday life in this tucked-away corner of the northern world.
